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Anubias, Bucephalandra, Java Fern, and most mosses are epiphytes: in nature they grow attached to wood and rock rather than rooted in substrate, and they'll rot if you bury their rhizome in your aquarium's soil. Attaching them to hardscape instead is simple once you've done it a couple of times, and it's the technique behind most of the driftwood and rock arrangements you see in finished aquascapes.
The rhizome (the horizontal stem the leaves and roots grow from) needs contact with water and light on all sides. Bury it in substrate and it will slowly rot, even if the plant looks fine for a few weeks first. Attaching it to the surface of wood or rock keeps the rhizome exposed while giving the roots something to grip as they grow, which is exactly what these plants do in the wild.
Cotton thread, fishing line, or fine mesh netting; aquarium-safe super glue gel (cyanoacrylate) as an alternative or supplement; and a piece of clean driftwood or rock with a rough enough surface for roots to grab onto. Avoid rubber bands or anything that won't biodegrade or that could cut into the rhizome as the plant grows.
Rinse the plant and trim any damaged roots or leaves. Position the rhizome flat against the wood or rock with the roots facing the surface. Wrap thread or fishing line around the rhizome and the hardscape in a few loose loops, just tight enough to hold it in place without crushing the tissue. Tie off and trim the excess. Within four to six weeks the plant's own roots will have anchored it permanently, at which point the thread can be left in place (it will biodegrade or become invisible under new growth) or removed.

Glue works well for small pieces or awkward angles thread can't reach. Dry the rhizome and the attachment point briefly, apply a small dot of aquarium-safe cyanoacrylate gel directly to the rhizome (not the leaves or roots), and press it against the hardscape for 20–30 seconds until it sets. The glue holds instantly, which makes it useful underwater during aquascaping, but it only bonds a small contact patch, so it works best combined with thread for anything larger than a single plantlet.
Anubias and Bucephalandra are the most forgiving for beginners since their rhizomes are thick and easy to handle. Java Fern attaches the same way but has a more delicate rhizome, so go easy on thread tension. Moss doesn't have a single rhizome to tie down; instead, spread a thin, even layer across the surface and secure it with mesh netting or crisscrossed thread until it grips on its own.
Our Bucephalandra Giant Broad Leaf ships bare-root with a sturdy rhizome that's easy to handle, making it a good first plant to practice attaching before moving on to more delicate species.

If the plant detaches after a few weeks, the thread was likely too loose or the surface too smooth to grip; try a rougher piece of hardscape or add a dab of glue for extra hold. Yellowing or melting leaves right after attaching is usually just transplant stress and should resolve within two to three weeks. If the rhizome itself turns soft or dark, it's rotting, almost always because it ended up pressed into a crevice or partially buried instead of sitting exposed on the surface.
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