Anubias Petite growing on driftwood in a planted aquarium
anubiasbeginnercare-guide

The Ultimate Anubias Care Guide: Light, Placement & Propagation for Beginners

If you're new to planted tanks and want a plant that forgives mistakes, Anubias is where most experienced aquascapers point beginners first. It's slow-growing, doesn't need to be planted in substrate, and tolerates a wide range of lighting and water conditions — which makes it one of the least stressful ways to add real greenery to a new aquarium.

Anubias Nana with dark green rosette leaves

Why Anubias Is a Beginner-Friendly Choice

Anubias is a rhizome plant native to West African rivers and streams, where it grows attached to rocks and driftwood rather than rooted in soil. That single trait solves most of the problems new planted-tank owners run into: no substrate requirements, no need for root tabs, and no risk of uprooting when fish dig around the tank.

It also grows slowly, which sounds like a downside until you're the one doing the trimming. A slow grower means less maintenance, less algae competition for nutrients, and a plant that holds its shape in an aquascape for months at a time.

Light and CO2 Requirements

Anubias thrives under low to moderate lighting and does not require supplemental CO2. This makes it one of the few aquarium plants genuinely suited to a basic setup: a standard LED hood and no injected CO2 system will keep it healthy. Under stronger lighting, Anubias is more prone to algae on its leaves, so if your tank runs a high-output light, consider placing it in a shadier spot behind taller plants or hardscape.

How to Plant Anubias Correctly

The single most common mistake with Anubias is burying the rhizome — the thick horizontal stem the leaves grow from. If the rhizome is buried in substrate, it will rot over time, even if the plant looks fine at first.

  • Tie or glue the rhizome to driftwood or rock using aquarium-safe thread or cyanoacrylate gel glue.
  • Keep the rhizome fully exposed to the water column — only the root threads should be in contact with a surface.
  • Give it 2–4 weeks to anchor itself before removing any thread.

Once established, Anubias can also be left loose on the substrate surface or wedged between rocks, as long as the rhizome stays clear of being buried.

Propagation

Anubias propagates by rhizome division. Once a rhizome has produced several leaf clusters, use a clean, sharp blade to cut it into sections, making sure each section has at least one healthy leaf and some root growth. Each division can be tied to its own piece of hardwood or rock to start a new plant.

Anubias Coffeefolia with textured bronze leaves, a variety with more distinctive coloring

A Good Starting Point

For anyone setting up their first low-tech tank, Anubias Nana is a compact, hardy variety that's easy to attach to driftwood and stays small enough for nano tanks. It's grown hydroponically at our California greenhouse and shipped bare-root or potted, depending on what your setup needs.

Common Issues and Fixes

Yellowing leaves: usually a sign of too much light or a nutrient imbalance, not a lack of fertilizer. Try moving the plant to a shadier spot before dosing more nutrients.

Melting leaves after purchase: some leaf loss during acclimation to new water parameters is normal. New growth should appear within a few weeks if the rhizome is healthy and unburied.

Algae on leaves: reduce photoperiod or light intensity, and consider adding algae-eating shrimp or snails to keep leaf surfaces clean.

Anubias rewards patience over intervention. Once it's anchored and the rhizome is clear of substrate, the best thing you can do for it is leave it alone.

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